chuka_lis

How to work with it?
Mix with a drying medium, pat it on, or sponge it evenly over the piece then after it is dry, you scratch out your designs into it (with a skewer, tooth pick , back of a brush.. whatever works., or you can use a resist under it:. the laser cuts work well ).
If you draw your design on the piece first with a Sharpie marker, you should be able to see the design through the sponged on White Velvet.
As for the laser cut resist:  it could be paper ones or paper ones or the vinyl ones which are reusable (You peel them off before you fire). It could be any that you likes of different motifs: butterflies, cats, dogs, horses, fish , scrolls, things for guys, golf, music, lots of Christmas designs, great detailed leaves, borders, baby designs, etc.
Peel off the resist motifs, lay them out on the china, sponge over with the White velvet, when the White Velvet l is dry,  peel off the laser cuts and then scratch out some areas a little wider..
Where you scratch to reveal the china, those places will stay shiny . The places where the powder remains will turn white matt after firing ... so then , when you apply gold, mother of pearl or luster over this on the next fire, where the gold, MOP or luster is over the matt ( white velvet) parts, it will give a silky matt finish.. and where it is over the exposed glazed parts, it will be shiny...
You can sand it if its too rough.. but its better to put it on thinner.
White Velvet must be fired cool (017 or 018) to maintain the matt effect.
After firing low ( to maintain the matt effect), cover with thin layer of MOP (mother of pearl) or LB Gold ( Liquid bright gold) or other luster ) for a shiny/matt effect, and fire again ...
A second coat of MOP works even better and will give the fired White Velvet more of a satiny appearance ( whereas mine is more matt ).
About the White velvet vs. matt white : It seems to my eye that the White Velvet is silkier looking.

thanks to PPIO folks and Marci